wild & frizzy hair | BEFORE Keratin Treatment

The chemistry

The primary component of hair fiber is keratin. Keratins are proteins, or long chains of amino acids. Keratin proteins form the miniature skeleton within all epidermal cells. Keratin filaments run within a cell from the inside of the outer membrane to weave a “basket” around the nucleus of the cell. Keratins are a principle part of the cells in hair and comprises 65-95% of the total hair fiber by weight.

There are several subtypes of keratin proteins, some are called “soft” keratins and others are “hard” keratins. Basically, soft keratins are relatively easy to break down whereas hard keratins are very resistant to degradation. Hard keratins do not dissolve in water and they are highly resistant to proteolytic enzymes. As you might have guessed, hair fiber is mostly made from hard keratin proteins.

Keratin proteins link together with adjacent sulfur to create a chemical bond. These bonds are very strong and very difficult to break apart and they are the key factor in the durability of hair fiber and its ability to resist degradation under environmental stress. These bonds are largely resistant to the action of acids but they can be broken apart by alkali solutions. This property is exploited in perms and chemical hair straightening processes.

The Treatment(s)

Since any keratin supplements taken orally pass right through you, there is no way to re-build the keratin lost except by topically filling in the missing spaces with hard keratin that will not wash out immediately.  This is what the Brazilian blow-out does.  A keratin solution is applied to the hair fiber, filling in any porous spots that have been weakened through chemical processes and heat damage.  The solution is then heat-set into the hair fiber with the use of a 450 degree professional straightening iron.  The heat bonds the keratin to the hair and you have smooth hair once again.

Note: This is NOT the Japanese Permanent Straightening process which breaks your hair down to give it a new form and leaves you with curly root growth.  Keratin bonds to your hair without breaking it down and it washes out gradually to prevent the strange root ‘fro.

There are several brands of keratin product available these days which only helps to make the process more confusing.  Here are a few of the main brands on the market today: Brazilian Blowout, Global Keratin Treatment, Keratin Complex by Coppola, Brazilian Keratin Treatment by Marcia Texteira.

I know that comparing the different products and weighing their benefits is something that few clients want to do.  After all, each company boasts that their product is the best. Ultimately, I subscribe to this doctrine:  choose a trained expert, one who has worked with all the different products, and allow them to determine the best treatment for you.  And, go formaldehyde free whenever possible.

The Process

To begin, your stylist will wash your hair with a purifying shampoo to remove any build-up and ensure they are working with clean hair.  They will then blow dry it.  Once you hair is clean and dry, the keratin solution will be applied evenly and carefully to every hair follicle and it will be once again blow-dried.  Finally, the keratin will be set into each fiber, tiny section by tiny section, with an iron that is 450 degrees.

Note:  If you dye your hair regularly, schedule touch-up color before the keratin treatment so you’re not breaking down the keratin with dye afterward.  Also, the treatment may fade your color slightly, so redheads and brunettes might consider going a shade darker before the treatment.

Time Commitment & Cost

The entire process can take over 3 hours (depending on your hair length and thickness).  Add in the cost of the solution and gratuity, and you’re looking at spending a pretty penny.  On average, the treatment itself will cost $300 to $500.

Caution: I think it’s quite important to find a technician who is well trained and skilled in keratin treatment.  Throughout the process I identified plenty of places that it could go wrong, but I rested easy knowing that my stylist, Trinity Higgs, is a pro, and she has a lot of experience with the process.  They do sell DIY products, but I haven’t tried them (and will not be trying them) so I can’t speak to their effects.

What I can do is reiterate my philosophy of hair – Your hair is always on your head.  It’s part of your outfit whether you’re wearing a $2k Chanel suit or jeans and a ratty tee. So take care of it!  It’s your most important accessory.

The Rules

OK, we’ve forked over a wad of cash, now let’s ensure we don’t do anything to compromise the treatment’s outcome.

1.  Do not wash your hair for a minimum of 72 hours (3 days).  The longer you can go before washing, the better.
Note: Your hair will have a light “film” on it which is simply the keratin solution that has not been washed out.  As the days go by, your conviction will be put to the test.  Resist the temptation to wash your hair.  Know that after 3 days of odd textured hair will come 3 months of the best hair days you’ve ever had.

2.  If your hair gets wet, damp, sweaty or moist in first the 72 hours after treatment, immediately blow-dry straight it and use a straightening iron to smooth out any pieces that have been effected.
Note:  Schedule your workouts around the treatment so you’re not working up a messy sweat right afterward.

3.  Do not allow your hair to get crimped in the first 72 hours.  Your hair will take on the shape you give it so do not use ties, clips, pins, bands, etc.  You can use a loose headband to lightly pull your hair out of your face to wash it, but immediately remove the band once you’re done and straighten any crimps the band might have caused.

4.  Do not use additional products in your hair for the first 72 hours after treatment.
Note: In an effort to reduce the filmy oil of the keratin solution, I used hair powder on my bangs after the third day, and that didn’t seem to do any harm.

5.  Once you’ve succeeded in getting through the first 72 hours, you can celebrate by washing your hair.  But, be sure you’re shampoo doesn’t have any sulfates in it.  Sulfates break down the keratin and will result in your treatment lasting only a short time.
Note: I’m liking Pureology products these days.

6.  Avoid salt water (aka-the ocean), chlorine (aka-the hot tub), and sulfates (aka-salt in your shampoo) else the keratin will wash out quicker than you would like.

Note:  These rules do not apply for the Brazilian Blowout.  Regardless of the brand you choose, be sure to get detailed care instructions from your stylist before leaving the salon as each product may have differing rules.

Who’s a Good Candidate?

You are.  Well, let me be more specific.  I have fine, wavy, hair that I dye every 6 weeks and keratin has changed my life.  My color didn’t fade, and my fine frizzies have been tempered.  I’ve seen it work wonders for my friends with super curly hair, and my Asian friends who have those annoying crimpy ends absolutely rave about it.

What Can You Expect?

You can expect to spend up to 3 hours in the salon and over $300 for the treatment that will last you 3 to 5 months.
Note: Since keratin washes out slowly, it’s up to you to determine how long it lasts.  The less you wash, the longer it will last.

You can also expect to walk out of the salon with thicker, shinier, frizz-free hair.  The texture will be improved, the condition will be corrected, and the time spent beautifying your hair will be reduced – drastically.

Fact: Before my treatment, I could easily have before spent 30 minutes – sectioning my hair, blow-drying it with a large brush under uncomfortable heat, then smoothing it with a flat iron – in hopes of achieving that runway coif.  Now it takes me 5 minutes.  Literally.

For my fellow wave-lovers who want the flexibility of wearing their hair stick straight one day and naturally wavy the next, not to worry.  You can don your characteristic curls, they will just be a little looser and any trace of frizz will have been eliminated.

Finally, you can expect that your hair will demand attention.  My locks must get at least one compliment a day.  I’ve been giving the keratin all the credit for my newly chic look, but now I just wonder if my pre-treatment hair was so bad that any improvement would inspire compliments.  Regardless, I’m embracing the current sleek hair trend and am thankful perms aren’t back in style.

how high can you get YOUR perm?

Some Specific Questions Answered

In preparation for this post, I opened up a forum on Twitter (if you aren’t already following me – get on it!) and got some great questions.  I think I’ve covered most of the concerns above, but please let me know if I’ve missed anything.  I’ll be happy to share in the name of beauty.  Simply post your question here as a comment or Tweet me @Dahlight and tag your question with #DahlHair.

I hope this has been helpful!  Hit me back with your “before” and “after” pics – or other ridiculous hairstyles from days past.  I’ve never done the crimping iron thing, but I do remember going to bed with my hair in dozens of wet knots, hoping to create Ferrah Fawcett waves…