Sonia Kashuk tools

I met the fabulous Vanessa Heshima Sims during a Showtime TV promo shoot.  She and her big personality swept in and worked her magic making me look perfectly fresh and natural for the interview.  A sweet, bright and professional girl who knows what she wants and goes after it with positive energy, we became fast friends.

Vanessa has worked in almost every capacity of the industry and she takes on each job with a fierceness that makes her work memorable.  Whether she’s working as a celebrity’s private makeup artist, helping to bring characters to life on a hit television show or painting the face of a fashion model, Vanessa is always on the go.  Lucky for us, she stopped for a moment to answer a few questions.

THE PATH

Dahlight:  What prompted you to get into make-up?

Vanessa: Make-up was a way of life for me. I have three sisters and I was always the one asking them, “Are you going to go out looking like that?” Don’t get me wrong, each and every one of them have their own sense of style, but I always added that extra punch. Whether it be red lipstick with lashes and nothing else. my sisters and I were always doing something with our make-up and hair. My mother is one of those real Southern women and we were groomed to always have our hair and make-up done. No hanging around in rollers and pajamas. Almost every woman in my family wears red lipstick if nothing else. It always gives you that pop! Every woman should have a red lipstick that goes with their skin tone. It is a no fail when you forget your makeup or just don’t have much time. The trend is back and I’m glad. It means the return of the true lady. I love it!

When did you realize that this career was more than a dream and could be a reality?

Wow. It finally happened overnight, after nine years of heavy toil and networking. It was a rough ride and I wanted to quit and give up at times, but it kept calling me back. I would get that great job and that great celebrity connection and things worked out in the long run. If something is meant for you, it’s meant for you. I am happiest when I am working on feature films and Emmy award winning shows. It was always my dream. I admit, sometimes I am on set laughing and joking around with an actor and I cannot believe I am actually doing what I said I would. It’s amazing to me because I remember those times when I wanted to give up and now they seem to be so few and far between.

What was your first make-up job?  How did you get it?

My first make-up job was Showtime at The Apollo. I was assigned to be Steve Harvey’s “powder girl.” Lol. I was so excited, confident and nervous at the same time. It felt great! I loved the excitement and the tension of shooting a live television show. The energy is so vibrant and awesome! It was a bit of a disaster though. On my first powder, I dropped some on his suit and he was like, “Watch the suit now, baby.” I almost fainted. He was forgiving and very nice. I ate many a fried fish sandwich on his behalf. That was a great job…

THE WORK

Dahlight:  How do you get your jobs?  Through an agent, self promotion, word of mouth, etc.?

Vanessa:  I get jobs in ALL of those ways. I am still a freelancer. Being in the union, has just put me in a better area to hustle my craft. Now, I can bargain with the major films and connect with the right people. I just signed with an agent, but I still get calls for work through recommendation. Though I’ve been a bit lackadaisical in the social media world, this year I’m resolved to get on board.  It’s just such a great way to connect with clients and peers and to help keep the jobs coming in.

Do you prefer working freelance or do you like being a member of a full-time team?

This year, I am seriously asking myself this very question. I have been on both sides and finding the balance sometimes is difficult. When I am working on an episodic, the money is great and you know you will be working weekly for at least six to nine months. The only problem is, sometimes you lose your creativity with make-up and hair. You are stuck in that character’s look. Unless, you are on a fabulous show like Mad Men or Gossip Girl, which is heavy hair and make-up that you can have fun with.  Grey’s Anatomy make-up and hair will leave you wealthy, but bored. Freelance is riskier, but sometimes a bit more fun. Working on feature films requires more waiting at times, but is more fun and great money. I am seriously thinking of taking my career in that direction.

Could you do your job from a city other than NYC?

I would like to think I could, but I have more work to do here. Movies shoot all over the world, but the right connections have to be made and those are often in the City. I love working on projects outside of New York and always appreciate my time away but I’m always excited to get back.  New York keeps me alive and energetic and inspired, but as you know, we pay to play and sometimes I think we all need to slow it down. More vacation…More vacation…

What is the toughest part of your job?

The early call times. The 5:12 AM and seventeen hour days. It’s like a drug though. The minute I’m not working those hours, I am bored.

Where do you find your inspiration and stay current?

I find my inspiration from everything around me. Fashion is definitely number one. I look at all kinds of fashion. Not just the American designers. I watch foreign films, historic films, go to art museums, people watch. I am always looking at hair and makeup in movies. The other day I was watching A Star is Born and I was fascinated with the set design, the wardrobe, everything in that film was vibrant and exciting!  I think every makeup artist and hairstylist should go to fashion shows or watch them online – and take copious notes. And practice, practice, practice! Make up your friends and relatives and always know how to do the every day individual. Every actor is not an Adonis or Venus, so learn how to do everyone and anyone that sits in your chair.

THE WISDOM

Dahlight:  What does it take to be successful in your career?

Vanessa: Faith.  I knew I wanted to be a makeup artist and so I am. I believed it and I learn from my errors. You have to be a professional at all times. Always be on time. Tardiness will lose you a job and multiple connections. Trust me, an employer ALWAYS asks about your respect of time. Time is money in this industry and it is not to be wasted. Always dress nice and have a sense of style and fashion. No low-cut blouses and mini-skirts. Keep it classy.  Let the actors, models, clients initiate the conversation after your “Good Mornings”. They may want to read the script, take notes or just be quiet. Respect that. Read your script and know what is going on. Know your character. Do research. Always stay on top of what is in and out, while maintaining your own makeup ‘look’. Know your room and act accordingly. But always have fun and most of all WHAT HAPPENS IN HAIR AND MAKEUP, STAYS IN HAIR AND MAKEUP.

Has the recession affected your business?  How?

Definitely.  Shows are getting canceled and moved to different states giving larger tax breaks to productions. New York recently did away with our tax break and we fought to bring it back by petition. Production houses are only investing money in ’sure things’ which means less films are being made and if ratings for television shows are low, a cancellation is sure to ensue. Also, during Fashion Week, many designers chose not to do a show. After all, who had thirty or forty thousand extra dollars for a show? There were many online campaigns that used fewer models and even mannequins which meant less work for makeup and hair artists. I understand businesses have to do what they have to do to weather the storm, but ultimately it’s a creative process and when that’s taken away because of finances, it’s a bummer.

Will the closure of so many fashion magazines affect the long-term outlook of your career?

I am hoping things will get better. I am a magazine girl at heart.  I love looking through fashion magazines, gossip magazines, EVERYTHING and tearing out ideas for outfits, color schemes, hair and makeup. I really get into it. However, people these days want information NOW so they turn to the web.  You can even find out what designer a celebrity is wearing just by their twitter feed.  It’s a sign of the times.  If I forgot to pick up the latest Harper’s Bazaar I can see most of what is in the magazine online without having to go back out to the news stand.

Your overall impression of the “fashion industry”?

Ambivalence. I love it. I need it. I cannot function without it. It pays the bills and I thrive in it.  Sure there are: politics, politics, politics. There is so much talent out in the world now and it is more difficult than ever for new designers and all others involved.  It’s the “who and what you know” industry. I do believe that the internet and, I hate to say it, reality shows are making it easier for a lot of up-and-coming designers and beauty professionals to get their name out there. Fashion designers from Project Runway would not have advanced so quickly in their careers without the show.

The biggest misconception you think people have about the industry?

Is that it is ALL GLAMOR. Don’t get me wrong, it is a glamorous life, but it is a LOT of work. I thought the more advanced in my career I became, the less work I would have to do. Not the case. I work very hard and I have to be very responsible. People tend to see the industry as a place where everyone is out having fun.  We definitely do get out and play, but sometimes I work seventy to eighty hours. I cannot be a hot mess working those hours. I have fun, but trust me, I pay to play.

THE GOODS

Dahlight:  Your career has the stereotype of catering to “Diva” clients.  Do you find this to be the case?  Any specifics you’d like to share?

Vanessa:  I struggle with the word “Diva.” Different clients have different preferences during the makeup application process. I don’t mind that at all. I try to keep everything as positive as possible with open communication. It gets difficult at times when communication is not enough and there is just almost no pleasing a client. When it comes to the true professional clients, I never encounter any “Diva-ism.” A professional trusts that I was hired to do the job because I’m qualified to do whatever is needed for the production. I have had those clients extremely new to the business who’s own insecurities lead them to believe that for them to be better they need to belittle. But the classy clients? NEVER.

What is the “look” that you’re known for?  How did you become known for it?

Wow. I don’t know if I am know for a “look” yet. But, many of my clients are impressed with my ability to make them look “natural.” I like to experiment with makeup, but my favorite look is skin that glows with makeup. Nicely moisturized skin, a creme blush that is not too pink or too red and a sheer pink gloss. That never looks over done and it works on all skin tones.

What are your most favorite products that you’re never found without?

I especially love, BeautiControl Lip Apeel® It has an exfoliator for lips on the bottom and a lip balm on top. Amazing! My lips are so full I cannot have them cracking and dry. MAC Powerpoint Eye Pencil Eye Liners and a Maybelline mascara. I keep a tube of MAC Lipstick Retro Matte Ruby Woo lipstick because I can pop it on my lips and even take some and make a creme blush. A set of travel makeup brushes, NARS Duo Concealer in Praline/Toffee, and a pack of Kleenex. Done!

Have the cosmetic companies provided/developed all the tools and products you need?  Do you have any needs that haven’t been met?

There is so much out there now it is craaazy. My kit is ridiculous! A lot of the products and tools are great and help, but at the end of the day, I always come back to the basics. Especially in a crunch when that particular color is not working and I have to mix up a gloss or creme blush on the fly. I moved to New York with four makeup brushes, a drug store makeup kit and I could make up a ‘mean’ face. Thousands of dollars later, I still only need about that many brushes and five percent of my kit! I definitely go through phases of using different new products and loving them, but I always go back to my basics.

THE LOOK

Dahlight:  What is your favorite make-up tip that can be used by all women?

Vanessa:  Always, always, always take care of your skin. Makeup looks horrible on skin that is neglected. That is first. Second, invest in a good set of makeup brushes. One for the vanity and another for your purse. You don’t have to break the bank. Sonya Kashuk is available at Target and they are great. I have had some of mine for over five years now without incident. Now ladies, that said – most importantly, discard, powders, mascara, shampoo, old dirty sponges and brushes regularly. Sponges should not be used over and over. It is unsanitary and can ruin not only your skin, but contaminate your makeup. Take care of yourselves.

How do you maximize an individual’s facial characteristics?  Is there a way to bring out one’s personality through make-up?

I definitely pay attention to a person’s best feature. Not every look is for everyone. Small eyes need to shy away from a “smoky” eye, it makes them smaller, so I focus on that person’s cheeks or lips. Lashes would make their eyes pop and using gold on the inner corners of the eyes brightens everything up. Makeup should always reflect individual personality. I am obsessed with elderly women who wear lots of blush and a red lipstick. And I mean LOTS. Some may think it is horrific, but I think it’s great. It makes them feel beautiful and it looks fabulous most of the time. I am in no way encouraging clown makeup, but find what works and what makes you feel confident – and accentuate the positive!

How do you have fun with your make-up while remaining appropriate and not looking like a clown?

Find your best feature and focus, focus, focus! Each person is different, so really find your best feature. Ask your friends, your Mom, your husband. Children are the best! They will not lie to you. If you have great eyes and not so great lips; why wear lipstick ALL of the time and never a great eye shadow color or lashes? A lot of people go with what their friends are doing, and what’s “in.” What is “in” is what looks good on YOU. What YOU can wear.  I always tell people that their best feature is usually what someone in the past told them was too big or too distracting.

For instance, I was in the church choir as a teen and I loved Revlon’s Cherries in the Snow red lipstick. My sisters and I wore it all of the time. One Sunday, a woman in the congregation told me I shouldn’t wear red lipstick because my lips were so full and it was distracting. It made me insecure about my lips at the time. Now, women are paying for lips like mine and I have come to realize that they are one of my best features!  So now I play with, not only red lips, but hot pink and peach as well!  So, pop up your best feature.  Distract and SMILE!

What is the classiest make-up look that will always stand the test of time?

I think the classiest makeup look is mascara, concealer, blush and a sheer pink gloss.

If you wanted to make someone more youthful, what would you do?

I would definitely make sure I use a great concealer. Not too much mauve, or deep colors on the lids. A gold shadow that matches the skin tone just slightly brushed over the lid with lots of mascara on the corner lashes; will bring the eyes up and out. Creme everything! Blush, shadow in the right shades and sheer pink/peach gloss like MAC LipGlass in Lust make a youthful face. The dewier the skin, the better!

Where can we find your work and contact you?

You can find me on IMDB and I am currently working on my website, VanessaHeshima.com

I just opened a Twitter account @VanessaHeshima so tweet me!  I’m excited to hear from all of you.

You probably haven’t been able to avoid all the talk about all the “miraculous” new keratin treatments that promise to give you runway worthy locks.

All the Hollywood starlets are doing it and my fine, frizzy hair wanted to jump on the wagon and see what the hype is all about.  Being the web savvy girl that I am, I picked up my PowerBook and began searching for answers.  But alas, my hunt only turned up frustration as I found myself browsing through a dozen pages, collecting one small tidbit at a painful time.

Thankfully, my stylist is ahead of the curve and agreed that I would love this “life-changing” procedure, so, despite my research deficiency, I threw caution to the wind and booked my appointment.  And my results?  Amaaazing (if I do say so myself).  In the spirit of sharing, I’ve packaged all my research and experience, from the client’s perspective, into this one page so that you can confidently consider the treatment for yourself.

Ladies (and fabulous gentlemen) of the world, I bring you:

LAURA’S KERATIN CLIFF’S NOTES

gorg’ smooth & shiny hair | AFTER Keratin Treatment

color me pretty

Just because it’s dahlightful to dress up your eyes in colorful paint, and because I hear from so many of my friends that they “can’t get away with” fancying up their face in carefree color, I thought I would share my makeup look for today.

I’ve gone for an electric lime as it’s light enough for day and originates in the Neutral color family but, when used properly, it delivers an unexpected punch.  These eyes can go as easily to the yoga studio as they can to the design studio and they can even take you out on the town for an unexpected lunch date.

Come on ladies, you don’t have to commit to a runway eyelid painted from brow to lash to have some fun with your makeup – truth is, most of us shouldn’t go all the way there.  In the real world, a little color goes a long way, and nothing will put a twinkle in your eye the way energetic shadow will.

what I used
Make Up For Ever eyeshadow in color No. 304, Diamond Lime

what I did
I primed the entire lid with a light pink, natural shimmer then used my Stila double sided brush to apply the punchy shadow liner.  Today I applied a thin line of color to both the upper and lower lids, but often I simply apply a bolder, thicker line (covering half the space between my lash and crease) to the top only.

* To get the brightest color and best consistency from the shadow I wet my brush with water and then pick up the color with the damp brush.  You’ll find the shadow goes on with ultimate smoothness and creates the optimal opaque effect that you want for this bright look.

Finish off with your trusty dark mascara, and you’re good to go!  But be careful, there’s no telling how your juiced up lids will affect your mood, so wait a few hours before operating heavy machinery.

some things to consider
*Choose a color that flatters your skin tone and makes your eyes pop.
*Don’t get caught up with matching your eyeshadow to your outfit.  Bold contrasting colors are best.
*Too much is too much.  When choosing attention deserving eyeshadow, opt for monochromatic clothing so as not to compete.
*Focus on one element.  The old rule applies – if you choose bright eyeshadow, go with a neutral lip.
*Have fun with it!  You can always wash off any mistakes and start over.

As most of you know, I’m a bit crazy when it comes to protecting my face from the sun (check out my SPF post).  This summer though, I’ve taken my protective prowess to a whole new level by including driving gloves in my repertoire.

I know it may sound extreme but I’ve heard that hands are the first things to age and I personally don’t want my hands to look like Yoda while my face stays plump and smooth like the proverbial baby bottom.  Putting those two things together is just plain creepy.

You can Google how to prevent hands from aging and everyone will give you the same advice:

Moisturize
Exfoliate
Use sunscreen
Wear gloves when working with chemicals
Wear gloves when gardening
Wear gloves in cold weather

BUT – no one recommends wearing gloves while in the sun (though I suspect that if China opened up their restrictions on the internet we would get plenty of new sun protection advice).

Again, I’m perfectly happy to stand out as the one freak who thinks this makes good sense.  I’ll leave it to you to decide if you want to join the freak train with me.  Just in case you’re on board, here are some sources for cool and attractive gloves.

Glove It stained glass glove

NOTES
1.  I’m not recommending those gloves made specifically for sun protection due to purely aesthetic reasons.  They’re hideous.  The gloves I’ve chosen are designed for other, athletic, purposes but they double as UV protective driving gloves.  That said, please ensure that you read the fine print as most golf and tennis gloves are sold individually so you’ll need to buy the right and left hand separately (unless you’re going for an eclectic mix of baby bottom and Yoda).

2.  Also, steer clear of the brand Evertan or Lady First altogether.  They are made with netting that allows sun to penetrate through the glove which obviously defeats the whole purpose.

For those of you with long fingernails and a huge engagement rock try Lady Classic

For you divas with unique flair and a loud personality check out Glove it

Walter Genuin golf glove

Those athletic types out there might love to jump right in and shop REI’s vast collection of gloves made for cycling, paddling, hiking, you name it.

As for me, I’m just rockin’ my classic Walter Genuin gloves.  I love the two-toned designs and variety of color options.

I’m well aware that wearing gloves in the summer might attract attention, but I suspect that the King of Pop would approve.

A natural and effective hair treatment

After spending two sun drenched weeks in Hawaii playing in the salty Pacific Ocean and taking advantage of the natural hair dryer created by a topless rental Jeep, my red tresses needed a major moisture makeover.

My treatment of choice?  Olive oil.  Organic, pure, natural, chemical and chemist free.

The result?  A smooth, shiny, frizz-free, bouncy and healthy head of hair that I would be proud to don on the runway.

It’s a pretty darn easy treatment to figure out, but here are some of my tips in case they can help you avoid any blunders.

Dress for success – Wear an old top that you can live without.  A large neck opening or button-down placket is best.  Why?  You know how impossible it is to get oil stains out of clothing, so don’t risk it.  I suggest identifying one rag-top that you stash in your closet for all messy projects.  It will surely come in handy when painting, dyeing hair, spring cleaning, gardening, etc.

Healthy portions – As you do when dyeing your hair, portion it out in smaller sections using clips.  This step is not absolutely necessary for the oil treatment but I think you’ll find that it makes things less messy.

Saturate your strands - I opted to use my olive oil pour spout and drizzle directly onto my hair as though it were a delicious caprese salad, though you can also pour the oil into a dish and use your fingers or a hair dye brush to apply the oil with some control.  Regardless of the technique you choose, focus on the ends – obviously – which are always the most damaged.  If you have a naturally oily scalp, avoid adding more oil to that area and start applying an inch from the scalp (you will definitely want to portion out your hair of you are going this route).

Lightly place a couple paper towels over your head to catch any drips and cover your head with a plastic disposable cap.

Simmer – You can leave the oil on you hair for as long as you want, but I would suggest no less than 10 minutes.  Since I had some housekeeping to do upon my return from my vacation, I left the oil on my hair for 5 hours as I unpacked, did laundry, washed the dog, watered the plants and fashioned a homemade trap for all the obnoxious fruit flies that were breeding aggressively in my kitchen while I was relaxing on the beach.

Wash up - As you learned in grade school, water and oil don’t mix, so you have to use plenty of shampoo to remove the oil.  But, be careful not to undo the treatment’s hard work by over cleaning your hair (which is probably why it’s damaged in the first place).  Use a mild shampoo and lather once.  Resist the urge to scrub until you’re locks are squeaky clean.  Apply conditioner as usual and rinse.

Serve – Expect your tresses to be oilier than usual – dah.  It may be a good time to finally try out all those up-dos you’ve been planning, but without a doubt you will be left with a rejuvenated coif that is as dahlicious as it is Dahlightful

Enjoy!  laura

Shout out to you Dahlight-ers.  Please send your homemade beauty treatments my way.  I’d love to test them out and then share the best of the best!

SPF – the miraculous potion that takes the years off

I’m always flattered when I get carded at bars, restaurants, grocery stores, gas stations, and event kiosks especially since a quick glance at my ID typically ignites a wide-eyed look of surprise.  I definitely give most of the credit for my youthful glow to my parents who blessed me with smooth skin genes, but mostly I credit them for having the knowledge and good sense to teach me about proper sun protection early on.

Growing up in the Las Vegas desert where I spent loads of time on the lake, at the pool, choreographing awesome rollerskating dances to Michael Jackson hits, bike riding to the mall, and riding my horse, it’s practically a miracle that I don’t look 10 years older than I am.

As a kid I was trained to slather on the sunscreen in liberal amounts.  I even slopped sunscreen on my pink potbelly pigs to prevent their sensitive pink color from turning a painful crimson.  I also learned early on from my grandmother that a hat is not only a strong fashion statement, it has a useful purpose.

Back in the day, we had fewer options.  You’d shop the pharmacy aisle and make a choice between Coppertone, Banana Boat, and Hawaiian Tropic.  You might have an option between waterproof or not, but basically your decisions stopped there.  Things are bit more confusing these days with dozens of companies hawking hundreds of sunscreens.  This summer brands are competing even more aggressively with the invention of SPF 100 products.  Could this actually be the miracle potion I’ve been waiting for?

I did some research to better understand the facts, and since I’m just a vain product whore who’s always up for trying the newest thing, I’ll let The New York Times and their experts explain the medical research behind this year’s new invention.  The findings are pretty darn fascinating.  I will however, give you a taste of my daily routine in hopes that it might help you to amp up your sun protective prowess for a smart and svelte summer glow.

Moisturize

When I wake up I rinse my face and apply DDF Enhancing Sun Protection moisturizer with an SPF of 30 to my face and neck.  This super product has self-blending color spheres that help even skin tone.  For the mornings when I’m headed straight to the gym, I stop my SPF applications there and head out the door with a fresh glow that allows me to look good but still sweat those ugly toxins out.  By keeping it simple I also prevent those embarrassing foundation spots on my gym towel.

Enhance

When I’m applying makeup and getting fancied up, I layer Laura Mercier’s tinted moisturizer with an SPF of 20 over my DDF Enhancing Moisturizer.  Beyond providing another layer of protection, it gives me a clean color foundation and adds a natural radiancy.

Finish

I finish off my face with Lotus Translucent Finishing Powder with SPF of 30 and then paint my cheeks, eyes and lips.  I also carry Peter Thomas Roth’s Instant Mineral Powder with SPF of 30 in my purse for easy on-the-go reapplication throughout the day.  Since it’s not a lotion or cream, you can apply it over your makeup without worry.  You’ll find it especially useful during longer than expected patio lunch dates and spur of the moment shopping excursions.

Protect your other face

Since your neck and chest are connected to your face and a tight face with a loose chest typically screams “face lift”, treat these areas as vigilantly as your face.  Because I’m typically on the run and don’t want to take the time to rub a lotion in, I spray on Peter Thomas Roth’s Continuous Sunscreen Mist with SPF of 30 on my chest and shoulders every morning.

I like this product because it smells more like perfume than sunscreen, but it does have a fairly hefty price tag, so when I’m covering my whole body I opt for Neutrogena’s Fresh Cool Body Mist.  Although it smells more like the beach than Barney’s, you can pick it up in quantity at Costco.  I keep a can stashed in the car, in my beach bag, in my gym bag and in my studio for easy access anytime I need it.

The more the merrier

Reapply liberally and regularly.  After reading The New York Times article you will have a better understanding on why this is key to your sun protection success.

Hard working fabrics

Check back for a whole posting about UV clothing, but in the meantime, take a lesson from the gardener and wear a large-brimmed hat with lightweight, light-colored long sleeve shirt and pants if you plan on spending the whole day under the sun.  By acting as a natural air conditioner, fabric that is slightly damp with perspiration will actually keep you cooler than a bare epidermis.  The hat of course, will serve as your private beach umbrella.

Dyeing for a new color?

On the Today Show this morning, a professional hair stylist offered some, sort of helpful, tips on how to dye your hair at home.  Though I’m certainly not a professional stylist, I’ve logged hundreds of hours in my make-shift bathroom salon playing with every color from platinum blond to midnight blue. My current color of choice is vibrant red.  I’m having a lot of fun with this look and find that the shade makes me feel bright, fun, strong, sexy and a little bit like a rock star.

Red being the most notoriously difficult color to maintain without hideous fading, I’m an absolute advocate for getting your own hands dirty with goopy chemicals in the name of affordable vanity.  After calculating my savings, I’m dahlighted to report that I save on average $650 a year by playing beauty school student at home.

Below are some dye-it-yourself tips and tricks that I’ve learned, sometimes the hard way, over the years.  Please note that these tips are specifically for use with professional dyes found in beauty supply stores, and not for those dyes found in grocery and convenient stores.  Why?  Because the product is superior and the cost and difficulty level are about the same.  Most importantly, professional brands offer the most unique colors with countless shade options, so you can have more fun with it.  So without further delay, let’s get this party started!

Choose the right color

It’s probably the most obvious and seemingly most difficult step of the whole process.  And, it’s the most important thing to get right.  Identifying the best single shade to suit you when choosing between thousands of colors made by dozens of companies is a dramatic and daunting task.  But don’t let that intimidate you.

Knowing that it’s hard to envision how a color will work against my skin tone, I’ve been known to try on wigs to get an overall idea when making a dramatic or non-natural color change. To get my current color, which is a revved up take on a potentially natural color, I spent some valuable time in my stylist’s chair and let her find the perfect shade for me.

This is my most favorite tip that I learned a few colors ago.  By allowing a professional to be the original chemist, you will forgo self doubt, achieve a dynamic and modern color, and avoid a tearful reveal.  Once you have the right color, it is much easier to match your hair to the dyes available at the beauty supply store.

My new favorite brand of dye is Schwarzkopf’s Igora Royal.  Offering seasonal colors, their chemists are always researching and forecasting trends to ensure their colors are fashion-forward.  They offer the most vibrant colors I’ve found (not including Manic Panic and other punk dye brands).  I also find my hair is softer after coloring with Igora and somehow their product doesn’t satin my skin!

P.S.  once you’ve settled on the perfect color be sure to keep the box or color tube after using so you don’t risk buying the wrong color next time.  A hard lesson learned.

Invest in professional tools

Likely, you’ll only have to buy tools once and you will get a lifetime of use out of them, so definitely invest in the proper tools for the job.  Folica is a great source for beauty supplies and they have even packaged all the perfect coloring tools for easy and convenient purchase.

Dress for success

If you’re ever a bit spacey like me, you will find this tip to be a humongous help.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve made this mistake (I did it 2 weeks ago), and every time I want to kick my own ass.

WEAR A BUTTON DOWN SHIRT or, as my husband prefers, wear no shirt at all.  You don’t want to find yourself all amped up to rinse and reveal your new color only to find you can’t get your top off to shower.  I only hope that I’ll remember to take my own advice next time, and the next…

Follow the instructions on the box

Each brand will have their own recommendations, so this is one time in life that you’ll want to read the fine print.  Generically though, it’s safe to say that you should mix equal parts 20% peroxide with equal parts dye and leave it on virgin hair for 30 minutes.  I always opt for the non-drip peroxides as they create a thicker consistency that’s easier for me to work with.

You can always consult the sales person at your beauty supply shop if you have any doubt about the lift (peroxide volume) your natural hair will need in order to achieve the color you want.

P.S.  Don’t be afraid to open up the color box in the store after you’ve purchased it to confirm that you bought all the correct things you’ll need.  Its not fun getting preparing everything only to find out you have to make a trip back to the store for missing items.

Avoid stains…on your skin, floors, hands, walls, pets, bathtub…

Outline your hairline and ears with Vaseline to minimize skin stains but be careful not to get it on hairs you want to dye as it will impede the process.  I personally prefer being left with a slightly red halo outlining my hairline for the following day than be left with uncolored baby hairs.  There’s just something strange about a redhead pulling her hair up to expose blond temple and neck hair.

Have plenty of rags on hand, remove all good towels and fabrics from your salon space, and drape porous furniture with more rags.

Ensure your pets are safely in another room so as not to inadvertently dye their coat if begged for a belly scratch.  Or, for some of you out there, to avoid the urge to consciously dye their coat a fresh new shade.

Clean up all skin stains immediately using diluted nail polish remover.  I also find that Lava Soap works well, but that’s mainly due to its exfoliating properties.  Your floors, basins and walls may take a bleaching product to remove all traced of darker colors.

P.S.  tile grout is especially porous and if you’re like me, you’ll prefer taking a little time in preparation to cover it up than a lot of time, and sweat, scrubbing it later.

Section your hair evenly

This is really just to give you an organized map of your head.  When you have smaller areas to work with you can focus on one specific section without loose hair interrupting your work.

Apply the dye

You can choose to begin applying color to any section you want first, but I find that by working from back to front I minimize my messiness.  Evenly coat your brush by dipping it into the bowl and apply color from scalp to the end of virgin hair (you will only color the roots if you are dyeing your hair the same color as before).

Use the pointy end of the brush to neatly grab a paper thin amount of hair to paint.  Paint it, then fold it over the other painted mini sections.  Repeat dozens of times through each section until every single hair is covered.

Begin timing – see details below.

P.S.  It helps me to get a detailed look at my head under different lighting, so go outside with a mirror to get a second look.

P.P.S.  Once each section is thoroughly covered, you can use any remaining dye to arbitrarily paint vertical low/high-lights on your head.  No fear, the color will not set dramatically but will rather result in a more natural, highlighted look.

Time it

I try to work quickly, but thoroughly, and begin timing my color with the final stroke of the brush.  While some sections will obviously be sitting with color longer, good professional dyes ensure that the color processes evenly.

Rinse thoroughly

Rinse your head with cool water.  Apply a little water at first and work the dye into a lather to loosen it up after being caked onto your scalp for 30 minutes.  Be patient and rinse until the water runs clear.

Condition, condition, condition

Refer to your product’s specific instructions as some brands will advise against shampooing immediately after color application.  I can’t come up with much of a reason for this, but I am one who washes my hair only when absolutely necessary in order to preserve moisture and vibrant color.  Regardless of your shampooing preference, use a color heavy duty, super charged conditioner after coloring for sure.

Maintain your color

I mentioned above that I rarely use shampoo.  It may sound weird and gross, but I have very fine hair, that’s obviously color treated, and I’m always working against my hair’s natural inclination to frizz (and fritz) out.  Nothing looks worse to me than parched unhealthy locks regardless of the color, which is why I quickly ended my fascination for platinum hair.

This means that I wash my hair every 3 or 5 days, depending on my activity level, and I alternate between a gentle shampoo and a color enhancing shampoo.  Currently in my shower are Bumble and Bumble’s Gentle Shampoo and Davines Alchemic Shampoo in red.  For those in between days when I need a little refreshing but don’t want to shampoo, I will thoroughly rinse my hair with cool water and apply a light conditioner.

By washing with cool water, reducing your use of shampoos and detergents, conditioning with color depositing products, and avoiding too much time in harsh sun, you will succeed in maintaining that freshly dyed.  Just be sure to keep those roots up, and always be open to shade changes (even if they’re slight) to keep things fun and new.

I hope you’ve found some of my tips helpful, and please comment with anything you’d like to add.  I’m always looking to improve on my techniques.

Wishing you a luxuriantly colorful adventure that delivers an inspired and glowing new look.

xx  laura

Final P.S.  If you want to get a better understanding of the whole coloring process and all its geeky chemistry, check out the links available at Style Hair Magazine