Dear Dahl,

What pieces should I add to my college girl wardrobe to make it more “grown up”?

xo @KelsJanae’s

With the addition of “Dear Dahl”, I’ve opened up the Dahlight content to you.  Being that I’m thoroughly bored by seeing the same tired fashion topics be re-worked, re-edited and re-published by the majority of respected fashion media month after month, year after year (you get the point), I thought I would find out what topics my fellow fashionistas were interested in learning more about.

With the help of Twitter, I recently asked you what was on your gorgeous mind.  Seems your pretty little heads are quite busy as the queries have been flowing in.  I’m especially happy to learn that you’re interested in many aspects of the fashion industry, beyond just style and beauty, so I have a lot of work ahead of me in order to make good on my goal to answer your inspiring queries.

Antonia Herringbone Tailcoat by Rugby, Ralph Lauren

____________________________________________

So, without further delay, let’s get this “Dear Dahl” project on its way and respond to @KelsJanae’s question:

To begin, let me just admit that I was not a stylish college student.  From the photos I’ve uncovered, it seems my frizzy, asymmetric, bobbed hair was a different color every month.  Being involved in various clubs (and being a brief member of AXO) meant that all I wore were big, boxy, over-sized tee-shirts made of stiff, rough cotton and decorated with event logos screened from front to back.  Most of the time this flattering tee would be paired with high-waisted, acid-wash, pleated jeans and chinos.  Horrors!

Things have changed a bit since my time on campus, thankfully for you, so for this answer I’m calling on my more mature experiences as a designer and stylist.

Dottie Cloche by Cha Cha's House of Ill Repute

First off, I always believe that it’s best to dress your age.  The goal for a college student should be to look capable, mature and put together.  Not older.  The few pieces I’ve chosen will help bring a classic refinement to any basic wardrobe and the look will last you for years to come.

• Tweed jacket – choose one with an updated take on the classic that can be layered with graphic tees, sweaters, shirts and hoodies.

• Crisp white tunic-length button-down shirt – wear it with leggings, jeans, skirts and trousers.

• Plenty of cardigans – to replace the proverbial sweatshirt.  Incorporate both over sized and fitted alike for endless layering options.

Brenkley Pea Coat by Burberry

• Hats – a driver cap, trilby or cloche can each work its way into your daily style but be careful not to buy into the current “disposable” hat trend and rather opt for a head topper made by a milliner with classic artistry.  It will cost more but you’ll have it forever.

• Pleated high-waisted A-line skirt – the classic silhouette will suit any personality.

• Shift dress – an item that’s a blank canvas.  Dress it up or down, wear it to interviews and to the movies.

• Jeans that are clean and tailored – always avoid trendy pocket art and bedazzling

• Opaque tights and leggings – the trend just won’t go away so embrace comfort while avoiding sweatpants at all costs.

Double Breasted Trench with Pleated Skirt by Burberry

• Overcoat, pea coat or trench – you can make even your yoga clothes look presentable if you cover up with one of these essential pieces.

• Leather blazer – because it will bring out your inner rock star while holding onto remaining

• Long scarves – let your creativity run wild and decorate your head, waist and shoulders as well as your neck.

• Great bag – you’re schlepping everything, so do it in style and remember that this is likely your most important accessory.

• Slouchy black booties

• Riding boots

• Oxfords, loafers, ballet flats

Berry Oxford Bootie by Jeffrey Campbell

l

• Converse – because they’re comfy, classic and cool.

• Headbands – will make even your bed-head presentable and offers more flair than simply tying your locks back with a band.

• A good haircut – your hair is always on your head, so make it look good!  More hair articles here:  Keratin, Dye it Yourself, Olive Oil Treatments

• A Little make up – don’t overdo it!  Think clean and fresh, not caked and flashy.

Sonia Kashuk tools

I met the fabulous Vanessa Heshima Sims during a Showtime TV promo shoot.  She and her big personality swept in and worked her magic making me look perfectly fresh and natural for the interview.  A sweet, bright and professional girl who knows what she wants and goes after it with positive energy, we became fast friends.

Vanessa has worked in almost every capacity of the industry and she takes on each job with a fierceness that makes her work memorable.  Whether she’s working as a celebrity’s private makeup artist, helping to bring characters to life on a hit television show or painting the face of a fashion model, Vanessa is always on the go.  Lucky for us, she stopped for a moment to answer a few questions.

THE PATH

Dahlight:  What prompted you to get into make-up?

Vanessa: Make-up was a way of life for me. I have three sisters and I was always the one asking them, “Are you going to go out looking like that?” Don’t get me wrong, each and every one of them have their own sense of style, but I always added that extra punch. Whether it be red lipstick with lashes and nothing else. my sisters and I were always doing something with our make-up and hair. My mother is one of those real Southern women and we were groomed to always have our hair and make-up done. No hanging around in rollers and pajamas. Almost every woman in my family wears red lipstick if nothing else. It always gives you that pop! Every woman should have a red lipstick that goes with their skin tone. It is a no fail when you forget your makeup or just don’t have much time. The trend is back and I’m glad. It means the return of the true lady. I love it!

When did you realize that this career was more than a dream and could be a reality?

Wow. It finally happened overnight, after nine years of heavy toil and networking. It was a rough ride and I wanted to quit and give up at times, but it kept calling me back. I would get that great job and that great celebrity connection and things worked out in the long run. If something is meant for you, it’s meant for you. I am happiest when I am working on feature films and Emmy award winning shows. It was always my dream. I admit, sometimes I am on set laughing and joking around with an actor and I cannot believe I am actually doing what I said I would. It’s amazing to me because I remember those times when I wanted to give up and now they seem to be so few and far between.

What was your first make-up job?  How did you get it?

My first make-up job was Showtime at The Apollo. I was assigned to be Steve Harvey’s “powder girl.” Lol. I was so excited, confident and nervous at the same time. It felt great! I loved the excitement and the tension of shooting a live television show. The energy is so vibrant and awesome! It was a bit of a disaster though. On my first powder, I dropped some on his suit and he was like, “Watch the suit now, baby.” I almost fainted. He was forgiving and very nice. I ate many a fried fish sandwich on his behalf. That was a great job…

THE WORK

Dahlight:  How do you get your jobs?  Through an agent, self promotion, word of mouth, etc.?

Vanessa:  I get jobs in ALL of those ways. I am still a freelancer. Being in the union, has just put me in a better area to hustle my craft. Now, I can bargain with the major films and connect with the right people. I just signed with an agent, but I still get calls for work through recommendation. Though I’ve been a bit lackadaisical in the social media world, this year I’m resolved to get on board.  It’s just such a great way to connect with clients and peers and to help keep the jobs coming in.

Do you prefer working freelance or do you like being a member of a full-time team?

This year, I am seriously asking myself this very question. I have been on both sides and finding the balance sometimes is difficult. When I am working on an episodic, the money is great and you know you will be working weekly for at least six to nine months. The only problem is, sometimes you lose your creativity with make-up and hair. You are stuck in that character’s look. Unless, you are on a fabulous show like Mad Men or Gossip Girl, which is heavy hair and make-up that you can have fun with.  Grey’s Anatomy make-up and hair will leave you wealthy, but bored. Freelance is riskier, but sometimes a bit more fun. Working on feature films requires more waiting at times, but is more fun and great money. I am seriously thinking of taking my career in that direction.

Could you do your job from a city other than NYC?

I would like to think I could, but I have more work to do here. Movies shoot all over the world, but the right connections have to be made and those are often in the City. I love working on projects outside of New York and always appreciate my time away but I’m always excited to get back.  New York keeps me alive and energetic and inspired, but as you know, we pay to play and sometimes I think we all need to slow it down. More vacation…More vacation…

What is the toughest part of your job?

The early call times. The 5:12 AM and seventeen hour days. It’s like a drug though. The minute I’m not working those hours, I am bored.

Where do you find your inspiration and stay current?

I find my inspiration from everything around me. Fashion is definitely number one. I look at all kinds of fashion. Not just the American designers. I watch foreign films, historic films, go to art museums, people watch. I am always looking at hair and makeup in movies. The other day I was watching A Star is Born and I was fascinated with the set design, the wardrobe, everything in that film was vibrant and exciting!  I think every makeup artist and hairstylist should go to fashion shows or watch them online – and take copious notes. And practice, practice, practice! Make up your friends and relatives and always know how to do the every day individual. Every actor is not an Adonis or Venus, so learn how to do everyone and anyone that sits in your chair.

THE WISDOM

Dahlight:  What does it take to be successful in your career?

Vanessa: Faith.  I knew I wanted to be a makeup artist and so I am. I believed it and I learn from my errors. You have to be a professional at all times. Always be on time. Tardiness will lose you a job and multiple connections. Trust me, an employer ALWAYS asks about your respect of time. Time is money in this industry and it is not to be wasted. Always dress nice and have a sense of style and fashion. No low-cut blouses and mini-skirts. Keep it classy.  Let the actors, models, clients initiate the conversation after your “Good Mornings”. They may want to read the script, take notes or just be quiet. Respect that. Read your script and know what is going on. Know your character. Do research. Always stay on top of what is in and out, while maintaining your own makeup ‘look’. Know your room and act accordingly. But always have fun and most of all WHAT HAPPENS IN HAIR AND MAKEUP, STAYS IN HAIR AND MAKEUP.

Has the recession affected your business?  How?

Definitely.  Shows are getting canceled and moved to different states giving larger tax breaks to productions. New York recently did away with our tax break and we fought to bring it back by petition. Production houses are only investing money in ’sure things’ which means less films are being made and if ratings for television shows are low, a cancellation is sure to ensue. Also, during Fashion Week, many designers chose not to do a show. After all, who had thirty or forty thousand extra dollars for a show? There were many online campaigns that used fewer models and even mannequins which meant less work for makeup and hair artists. I understand businesses have to do what they have to do to weather the storm, but ultimately it’s a creative process and when that’s taken away because of finances, it’s a bummer.

Will the closure of so many fashion magazines affect the long-term outlook of your career?

I am hoping things will get better. I am a magazine girl at heart.  I love looking through fashion magazines, gossip magazines, EVERYTHING and tearing out ideas for outfits, color schemes, hair and makeup. I really get into it. However, people these days want information NOW so they turn to the web.  You can even find out what designer a celebrity is wearing just by their twitter feed.  It’s a sign of the times.  If I forgot to pick up the latest Harper’s Bazaar I can see most of what is in the magazine online without having to go back out to the news stand.

Your overall impression of the “fashion industry”?

Ambivalence. I love it. I need it. I cannot function without it. It pays the bills and I thrive in it.  Sure there are: politics, politics, politics. There is so much talent out in the world now and it is more difficult than ever for new designers and all others involved.  It’s the “who and what you know” industry. I do believe that the internet and, I hate to say it, reality shows are making it easier for a lot of up-and-coming designers and beauty professionals to get their name out there. Fashion designers from Project Runway would not have advanced so quickly in their careers without the show.

The biggest misconception you think people have about the industry?

Is that it is ALL GLAMOR. Don’t get me wrong, it is a glamorous life, but it is a LOT of work. I thought the more advanced in my career I became, the less work I would have to do. Not the case. I work very hard and I have to be very responsible. People tend to see the industry as a place where everyone is out having fun.  We definitely do get out and play, but sometimes I work seventy to eighty hours. I cannot be a hot mess working those hours. I have fun, but trust me, I pay to play.

THE GOODS

Dahlight:  Your career has the stereotype of catering to “Diva” clients.  Do you find this to be the case?  Any specifics you’d like to share?

Vanessa:  I struggle with the word “Diva.” Different clients have different preferences during the makeup application process. I don’t mind that at all. I try to keep everything as positive as possible with open communication. It gets difficult at times when communication is not enough and there is just almost no pleasing a client. When it comes to the true professional clients, I never encounter any “Diva-ism.” A professional trusts that I was hired to do the job because I’m qualified to do whatever is needed for the production. I have had those clients extremely new to the business who’s own insecurities lead them to believe that for them to be better they need to belittle. But the classy clients? NEVER.

What is the “look” that you’re known for?  How did you become known for it?

Wow. I don’t know if I am know for a “look” yet. But, many of my clients are impressed with my ability to make them look “natural.” I like to experiment with makeup, but my favorite look is skin that glows with makeup. Nicely moisturized skin, a creme blush that is not too pink or too red and a sheer pink gloss. That never looks over done and it works on all skin tones.

What are your most favorite products that you’re never found without?

I especially love, BeautiControl Lip Apeel® It has an exfoliator for lips on the bottom and a lip balm on top. Amazing! My lips are so full I cannot have them cracking and dry. MAC Powerpoint Eye Pencil Eye Liners and a Maybelline mascara. I keep a tube of MAC Lipstick Retro Matte Ruby Woo lipstick because I can pop it on my lips and even take some and make a creme blush. A set of travel makeup brushes, NARS Duo Concealer in Praline/Toffee, and a pack of Kleenex. Done!

Have the cosmetic companies provided/developed all the tools and products you need?  Do you have any needs that haven’t been met?

There is so much out there now it is craaazy. My kit is ridiculous! A lot of the products and tools are great and help, but at the end of the day, I always come back to the basics. Especially in a crunch when that particular color is not working and I have to mix up a gloss or creme blush on the fly. I moved to New York with four makeup brushes, a drug store makeup kit and I could make up a ‘mean’ face. Thousands of dollars later, I still only need about that many brushes and five percent of my kit! I definitely go through phases of using different new products and loving them, but I always go back to my basics.

THE LOOK

Dahlight:  What is your favorite make-up tip that can be used by all women?

Vanessa:  Always, always, always take care of your skin. Makeup looks horrible on skin that is neglected. That is first. Second, invest in a good set of makeup brushes. One for the vanity and another for your purse. You don’t have to break the bank. Sonya Kashuk is available at Target and they are great. I have had some of mine for over five years now without incident. Now ladies, that said – most importantly, discard, powders, mascara, shampoo, old dirty sponges and brushes regularly. Sponges should not be used over and over. It is unsanitary and can ruin not only your skin, but contaminate your makeup. Take care of yourselves.

How do you maximize an individual’s facial characteristics?  Is there a way to bring out one’s personality through make-up?

I definitely pay attention to a person’s best feature. Not every look is for everyone. Small eyes need to shy away from a “smoky” eye, it makes them smaller, so I focus on that person’s cheeks or lips. Lashes would make their eyes pop and using gold on the inner corners of the eyes brightens everything up. Makeup should always reflect individual personality. I am obsessed with elderly women who wear lots of blush and a red lipstick. And I mean LOTS. Some may think it is horrific, but I think it’s great. It makes them feel beautiful and it looks fabulous most of the time. I am in no way encouraging clown makeup, but find what works and what makes you feel confident – and accentuate the positive!

How do you have fun with your make-up while remaining appropriate and not looking like a clown?

Find your best feature and focus, focus, focus! Each person is different, so really find your best feature. Ask your friends, your Mom, your husband. Children are the best! They will not lie to you. If you have great eyes and not so great lips; why wear lipstick ALL of the time and never a great eye shadow color or lashes? A lot of people go with what their friends are doing, and what’s “in.” What is “in” is what looks good on YOU. What YOU can wear.  I always tell people that their best feature is usually what someone in the past told them was too big or too distracting.

For instance, I was in the church choir as a teen and I loved Revlon’s Cherries in the Snow red lipstick. My sisters and I wore it all of the time. One Sunday, a woman in the congregation told me I shouldn’t wear red lipstick because my lips were so full and it was distracting. It made me insecure about my lips at the time. Now, women are paying for lips like mine and I have come to realize that they are one of my best features!  So now I play with, not only red lips, but hot pink and peach as well!  So, pop up your best feature.  Distract and SMILE!

What is the classiest make-up look that will always stand the test of time?

I think the classiest makeup look is mascara, concealer, blush and a sheer pink gloss.

If you wanted to make someone more youthful, what would you do?

I would definitely make sure I use a great concealer. Not too much mauve, or deep colors on the lids. A gold shadow that matches the skin tone just slightly brushed over the lid with lots of mascara on the corner lashes; will bring the eyes up and out. Creme everything! Blush, shadow in the right shades and sheer pink/peach gloss like MAC LipGlass in Lust make a youthful face. The dewier the skin, the better!

Where can we find your work and contact you?

You can find me on IMDB and I am currently working on my website, VanessaHeshima.com

I just opened a Twitter account @VanessaHeshima so tweet me!  I’m excited to hear from all of you.